Costume Designers Guild Nominations: “Top Gun” soars, “The Fabelmans” flounder
DateThursday, January 12, 2023 at 9:00PM
by Cláudio Alves
Worry not, “Fabelmans” fans. Mark Bridges may still get an Oscar nomination.
For the past two years, all the Oscar nominees in Best Costume Design were also recognized by the Costume Designers Guild, but that’s not always the case. Indeed, in 2019, they didn’t nominate three of the eventual Oscar nominees, including the winner – Jacqueline Durran for Little Women. All this to say that you should take this year’s nominees with a grain of salt in terms of Oscar, especially regarding two big omissions – Mark Bridges for The Fabelmans and Sandy Powell for Living. Both designers have secured Oscar nominations with no corresponding guild support in the past – he for Joker, she for Gangs of New York, Mrs. Henderson Presents, and The Irishman. In any case, their lack of recognition proves that the industry may not be as into their films as previously anticipated. We shall see.
After the jump, the complete list of nominees and some further comments…
“Babylon” | © Paramount Pictures
EXCELLENCE IN PERIOD FILM
Babylon, Mary Zophres
Don’t Worry Darling, Arianne Phillips
Elvis, Catherine Martin
Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris, Jenny Beavan
The Woman King, Gersha Phillips
Funnily enough, the inclusion of Don’t Worry Darling isn’t especially surprising if you consider the guild’s history. Arianne Phillips is one of their favorite designers, with eight nominations to her name. The group features no first-timers, though this is only Martin’s second nod. If she wins, this will be her first CDG trophy despite having already amassed two Best Costume Design Academy Awards. Because of that, I feel reticent in predicting her for a guild victory, though Elvis is still my pick for Oscar frontrunner in this category. I think this is Zophres’ to lose at the CDGs, having already won here with Chazelle’s La La Land. In the alternative, Beavan might become a four-time winner thanks to Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris.
“Black Panther: Wakanda Forever” | © Disney
EXCELLENCE IN SCI-FI/FANTASY FILM
Avatar: The Way of Water, Deborah L. Scott
Black Panther: Wakanda Forever, Ruth E. Carter
Everything Everywhere All at Once, Shirley Kurata
Hocus Pocus 2, Salvador Perez
Thor: Love and Thunder, Mayes C. Rubeo
Some guilds categorize Hocus Pocus 2 as a TV film, while others put it on the cinema side of things. I tend to agree with CDG, even if I can’t entirely defend their will to honor it with a nomination. Regardless Ruth E Carter has this one sewn up in my book, while Kurata may have an outsider’s chance, thanks to EEAAO’s overall popularity. For those surprised at Avatar’s presence, remember that the original film also scored a nod from the guild, virtual costumes and all.
“Glass Onion: A Knives Out Mystery” | © Netflix
EXCELLENCE IN CONTEMPORARY FILM
Glass Onion: A Knives Out Mystery, Jenny Eagan
Nope, Alex Bovaird
TÁR, Bina Daigeler
Top Gun: Maverick, Marlene Stewart
Women Talking, Quita Alfred
That Top Gun nomination is indefensible, mainly serving to underline the picture’s immense popularity within the industry. The rest of the lineup is fantastic, however. Any of them would make for a great addition to the eventual Oscar roster if that branch ever gets over its allergy to contemporary designs. I’m betting Glass Onion takes this one since it’s the showiest.